Growing Dahlias

As with the thinning out, the degree of disbudding must vary a great deal, consideration being given to the classification of the particular variety, its potential size in the group and to the specific purpose for which it is grown.

Pre-supposing that the plants are destined to produce blooms of exhibition quality, on the giant varieties all side shoots should be removed, except two which should be retained low down on each branch to act as replacements when the bloom is cut. Disbudding should be done gradually over a period as there is a tendency, if too many side shoots are removed at any one time, for the buds to be misshapen, or in extreme cases completely blind, due to the sudden concentration of sap flow into the one bud.

If possible the whole plot should be covered several inches deep. It may not be possible to do this if only compost or manure is used, but a bale or two of straw or bracken can be used to eke out the more valuable material to give the required depth.

The advantage of disbudding is clear. For garden decoration, or as cut flowers for the house, the blooms, although somewhat reduced in numbers, will look more effective and be of better formation on longer stems, holding themselves well above the foliage to receive the admiration which is their rightful due. For the exhibitor it is an essential part of his or her routine culture.

This lack is quickly made up on the death of the bacteria, when the nitrogen they have absorbed is once again made available, and ultimately the balance is restored, in fact enhanced.

There is also a difference in the respective times at which the blooms appear, according to whether the central or side buds are used. The central bud will open earlier than the side buds, and even these will vary slightly from each other. Of the two sick buds one is usually held on a bare peduncle arising directly from the terminal pair of leaves on the main stem, whilst the other has an additional pair of leaves. For comparative purposes it can be assumed that the side bud without leaves will reach maturity three to four days later than the central bud, whilst the bud with an additional pair of leaves will bloom three to four days later still. The value of this variation can easily be seen. By careful selection of buds one is almost certain of producing a bloom by a specific date.

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